A while back
I mentioned a couple of dishes I’d been leery of trying out at
home: pasta (which that post was about), pizza, and duck confit.
Well, I still haven’t done that pizza yet, but I did finally try my
hand at duck confit, and guess what? Although it does take some
advance notice (because the duck needs to cure for 24 hours), the
method I used was no more arduous than many meat dishes I make on a
regular basis:
Duck
Two-Ways, with Duck Fat-Fried Taters
Seriously
good stuff.
The word
“confit” means “preserved” in French, and the term is
used not just for meat, but also for vegetables and fruits. In
essence, it refers to anything that’s cooked slowly in a liquid
inhospitable to bacterial growth (e.g., sugar syrup or, in the case
of duck confit, melted fat), and then preserved submerged in that
liquid until consumption. (For a good explanation of the confit
process, see here.)
The method I
used for my duck confit was a combination of the traditional recipe (which requires 4 cups of duck fat before you start) and an “easy”version from Melissa Clark of The New York Times
(which has you slow-cook the legs in just their own fat).
For
my “mama bear” version (not too easy, not too hard), I bought a
whole duck, and rendered all the fat from the skin and fat I wasn’t
using for my meal—thereby having more duck fat than Melissa Clark’s
version, but not as much as in the traditional recipes.
my
whole duck (purchased frozen at Costco)
If
you know how to part out a chicken, you can easily do a duck, as
well. (If not, go here
to learn how.) But for confit, don’t separate the leg and
thigh; keep them together.
Here
is my duck all cut up, with the prized skin and fat in the
foreground. I made the confit out of the legs/thighs and the wings,
and seared the breasts and served them with a passion fruit glaze. The
back and neck I saved for stock.
To
render the fat, cut the skin into 1” squares, put it in a heavy,
deep saucepan, and add enough water to cover it.
Simmer
it slowly for about an hour, stirring occasionally to prevent
sticking, until the water has cooked off and the skin has become
luscious cracklings (which you can reheat in the oven and salt, and
serve with cocktails). (See recipe here.)
my rendered
fat and cracklings
Pour the fat
into a container and cool it in the fridge and save it until the next
day. The cracklings can also be saved in an airtight container in the
fridge till use.
Now for the
curing of the legs and wings. Mix together 1 teaspoon salt, 1
teaspoon black pepper, ½ teaspoon dried thyme, and 1 or 2 crumbled
bay leaves, and sprinkle the mixture over both sides of the leg/thigh
pieces and wings. Place them in a single layer in a pan, cover with
plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 24 hours.
the duck
curing
The next day,
fry the legs/thighs and wings over a low-to-moderate heat in a heavy,
oven-proof skillet, fat-side down, to render as much of the fat on
them as possible. Preheat the oven to 225°
F while you’re frying the duck.
Flip the legs
and wings over, and pour into the skillet the fat you rendered the
day before (if it’s hard from being in the fridge you can
warm/liquify it first in the microwave). Cover the skillet and place
it in the oven, and let the meat roast for 2-3 hours, until it’s
falling-off-the-bone tender. Leave the meat in the fat and let it
cool, and then cover and refrigerate until the afternoon you’re
going to serve it.
Scrape as much
fat as you can off the pieces of meat, place them in a baking dish
(uncovered) and roast at 400° F
until they are golden brown and crispy—about 10-15 minutes.
Yes,
it was as delicious as it looks!
You
can save the duck fat for future confits, or do as I did, and fry
potatoes in it to serve with the confit. (Bake the potatoes the day
before, and then slice and fry them in the fat while the duck is
roasting in the oven.)
A
photo of our meal (which also included the seared duck breasts with
passionfruit glaze) is at the top of this post.
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